Water-mixable oil paints | A helpful guide for oil paint artists and beginners
Looking to try water-mixable oils but not sure where to start?
Acrylic paints are a very versatile medium as they can be used like watercolours or oils. They are fast drying and come in a large selection of colours. You can also buy various mediums that can be used to create texture and tonal effects or sheens. Acrylic paints are an exciting medium for any artist regardless of calibre and they can be applied to many different supports such as canvas, paper, wood or metal.
So, what do you need to get started?
So, what do you need to get started?
1. WATER MIXABLE OIL paints
Acrylic paints are widely available in any art store or online. If you have no supplies at all, buying a simple kit with 6 - 8 colours in them will be a good start. You should be able to mix these colours to extend your palette. There are many companies out there that sell their own acrylic paint brands. Each brand can vary and will depend on your personal style and preferences. Some brands can be seen below and you can click on some images to find out more about the product.
DALER ROWNEY Georgian oils
offers a few ranges of acrylic. Their heavy body paints are classed as a professional range and contain the most pigment. This range has a thicker consistency than many other ranges. |
WINSOR & NEWTON Artisan oils
are classed as mid-range grade and are ideal for those starting out as they are affordable with a wide range of colours available. Click the image to read the Artisan article |
ROYAL TALENS Cobra oils
Cobra Artist is an artists' quality water-mixable oil paint with an exceptionally high degree of pigmentation. Only the very best pigments and oils are used to create these colours. |
2. BRUSHES
Brushes come in all shapes and are either made from synthetic hair or animal hair. Generally, firm bristle brushes will leave behind brushmarks during painting, where softer ones offer a smoother application, perfect for tonal blending. This gives you the option of choosing if you want texture in your paintwork or if you prefer a highly realistic finish, where brushmarks cannot be seen.
IMPORTANT: If you invest in quality brushes, always make sure you wash them thoroughly after use and dry them out with bristles pointing upwards to avoid damage. Your brushes will last much longer if cared for correctly.
Will you be quite heavy handed with your brushes? If so, buy cheaper ones and keep an expensive set for best. Don't buy too cheap as they have a tendency to 'moult'. Each hair may dry into your paint, damaging your painting whilst attempting to remove it.
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If you prefer to use natural brushes, here is a basic recommendations list:
Sable brushes - Ideal for Watercolour Hog brushes - Ideal for Oils Synthetic - Ideal for Acrylics |
What is the average size of the canvases you will be working on? If you are going to paint BIG! and need big brush strokes, you're unlikely to need small brushes. You can buy quality paintbrushes from any DIY store.
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3. CANVAS & SUPPORTS
There are many surfaces you can paint on; paper, canvas, wood and aluminium surfaces. Your choice of canvas will depend on your style of painting. Some come primed, others will require a primer such as gesso before you paint on them. The highly popular canvas has a weave which can be notable or very fine. If you prefer loose work, bold applications and are using mediums with your paints, canvas may be the best option. If you are looking to create highly detailed, fine work with small brushes, a smooth canvas like the Ampersand Gessobord or Claybord may be better for you. Below are some other examples.
CANVAS
are available in a large variety of sizes, shapes and depths. Cotton is the one most widely available at low prices, but some artists such as those who work with Oils prefer to work on Linen canvases. |
BOARD
is low cost and makes an ideal surface to paint on. MDF can be cut to any size or shape and available in various thicknesses too. You will need to prime the surface before you paint on it though. |
PAPER
are rigid, lightweight painting surfaces which do not release gases over time, barely reacting to changes in humidity and temperature and do not warp like traditional painting surfaces can. |
4. MEDIUMS
MEDIUMS (OIL)
This support board offers you a flat surface with which to secure your painting to if sat at a table or a desk. If you are painting on paper or unframed canvas, attach the surface to the board with masking tape. |
THINNER
This type of board can be adjusted to 3 heights and can be stood on any flat surface. It has a ledge which the canvas can sit upon and hold it in place. You may need to secure around the edges to ensure it does not move from side to side whilst you paint. |
IMPASTO
A floor easel allows you to work in almost any spot you wish, if there is enough space. You can adjust the height at the top to hold your canvas securely in place. The easel shown in the photo also allows you to work at a flat angle too with space to hold your painting supplies on the ledge at the bottom. |
5. MIXING PALETTE
You can use almost anything as a palette. An old plate or kitchen tile, a saucer, even an old foil dish that once held dog food (well washed!). You do not need to buy a palette, but a good palette can be very useful. Below are some examples of different types available. Which you choose for your acrylics is down to personal preference but it is recommended that you always clean them properly after you have finished with them.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you wipe excess paint out of your palette using a paper towel or wait until it dries, and peel it away. Dispose of paint and/or tissue in the bin (not the toilet). Avoid rinsing paint down the drain.
WOODEN PALETTE
" Traditionally, palettes were made from wood—the best being pear or mahogany, but other types of wood were also used. Pear and mahogany both have very tight pores, meaning that there’s less drag on your paintbrushes and they will last longer and not fray as easily. " You can buy a varnish to treat and protect your palette before you use it. |
DISPOSABLE PAPER PALETTE
is ideal for acrylics as it is much easier to clean all the paint off, providing you do this after each session. Porcelain dishes come in a variety of shapes and sizes with numerous wells. You may wish to build up a collection of palettes, especially if you work between paintings. |
GLASS PALETTE
A stay wet palette can be purchased from art stores or you can make your own at home. At the end of your painting session apply a spray or drop of water over the top of each 'blob' of paint left in your palette. Seal the palette well with cling film. Put it in the fridge. Paint can stay wet for days, possibly weeks in these conditions. |
6. ACCESSORIES
Every acrylic painting should be protected with a varnish of some kind. This can come in many different forms and applied in various ways. Varnishes are used to protect finished paintings from dirt and grease, with some providing a certain degree of protection from UV light too. Varnishing a painting is an art form all of its own and you may need to try a few different ways before you find the one most suited.
PALETTE KNIFE
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VARNISHES
These are available in a Gloss, Satin or Matt finish. The Artisan range are available in 75ml and 250ml sizes. They also sell the varnish remover should you need to re-varnish a painting in the future. |
UPRIGHT EASEL - allows you to work in almost any spot you wish, if there is enough space. You can adjust the height at the top to hold your canvas securely in place. The easel shown in the photo also allows you to work at a flat angle too with space to hold your painting supplies on the ledge at the bottom.
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7. ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS
Easels can be as simplistic as a flat piece of wood to a custom made desk. Do you have an area that you will use for creating your art, a kitchen table, or a spot next to the window? Placing your art on a flat or sturdy surface is so important to ensure you can paint securely without the paper or the canvas moving around. Below are some examples of easels. If you work on your art for many hours, you need to ensure you are comfortable too.
PAPER TOWELS
Acrylics do not really require large use of water like watercolours do, so a few sheets of kitchen towel will be handy to soak up excess water on your paintbrush between colour changes. This also ensures you do not dilute your paints too much which can make them translucent. You may also wish to lay your paintbrushes on it to dry too.
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GLASS WATER POT
Almost everyone has a spare glass jar they could utilise for a water pot. Old coffee jars are ideal and the larger ones are also great for storing or cleaning brushes after you have finished with them. Glass jars are far more accessible and it is better to recycle them this way than send them off to a recycling plant where they may just be thrown away rather than recycled again. |
BRUSH CLEANER? OR PIPETTE?
As acrylic paints dry quickly, it is recommended that you keep your paint supple with water during your painting session. You can either use a fine mist, spray bottle or a plastic pipette. Apply a spray or 1 - 2 drops of water into each well before placing the paint over the top (do not mix) If sealing your palette overnight for use the next day, apply another drop or two of water to stop your paint drying out. |
Other related articles of Interest
Colour paletteAlthough you can buy a starter kit to begin with, but if you are unsure if w-m oils are for you, purchasing just five colours may be a more cost-effective way to go. These can then be mixed to create other colours. The three primary colours are recommended which are red, blue & yellow (these are the three colours that cannot be created by mixing other colours together) these colours can then be mixed to produce 'secondary colours' which are green, purple and orange. Tertiary colours are made up from mixing primary colours with the secondary colours. By adding white or black to your colour mix will allow you to create an endless palette of colour. However with this mixing may come wastage so purchasing further colours in the same range where needed may be more preferable. Purchasing single tubes as and when needed rather than buying the full range of colours you hardly ever use will save money in the long run. You may find you use the white tone a lot, so it may be more cost effective to buy a larger tube/pot of this paint.
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recommended colour palette for beginners
Your initial palette should provide a wide colour spectrum and should have a good balance between transparent and opaque colours and between strong tinting and weaker tinting colours.
Acrylic paint - What type or brand should I buy?
Student or Professional? What is the difference?
Here is a list explaining the differences of student & artist quality acrylic paints. I cannot stress the importance of trying acrylics out before buying a large, expensive range, if you cannot get on with them you've wasted a lot of money.
Here is a list explaining the differences of student & artist quality acrylic paints. I cannot stress the importance of trying acrylics out before buying a large, expensive range, if you cannot get on with them you've wasted a lot of money.
Cheap or student quality acrylics* Cheaper prices
* The cheaper the paints the more 'colour shift'** you will see * Created from man made pigments or from a dye means colours will be thinner, offering less coverage * More filler, less pigment * Can be used for underpainting to limit wastage on expensive paints * A 'hue' is an imitation not a pure pigment * Non-toxic, safe for children * Not all paints use lightfast pigments so colours may fade quicker. |
Artist/professional & interactive quality* Higher quality pigments
* Better coverage * More expensive * No 'colour shift' * Natural pigments are used * All artist quality paints are lightfast (ASTM standard) * Wider selection of colours * Smoother consistency makes them easier to blend * Higher permanance rating than watercolours & oils * Some pigments are toxic (Cadmium) - this pigment is hard to obtain and is one of the most expensive |
**As more filler is used in student grade paints this weakens the colour and you may find it will dry slightly darker than the paint colour in the tube - this is known as 'colour shift', the cheaper the paints the more the colour shift - there is no colour shift on artist/professional quality paints.
Hints & Tips
DON'T: |
DO: |
- When starting out, begin with heavy body acrylics as they can just as easily be thinned down allowing you to try different styles before deciding if you prefer a heavier, buttery consistancy (like oil paints) or work with a thinner paint (great for detail)
- Acrylics can be applied to most surfaces but you must always ensure your surface is primed correctly before applying any paint.
- The final painting should always be protected with a suitable varnish. Acrylic paintings are framed without the need for glass, so the varnish is very important.
- Interactive/Open paints is manufactured with a retardent to keep them workable for longer (all are lightfast classified as I and II)
- Transparent colours are used for glazing and tinting
- Some pigments contain animal derivatives such as crushed bone, if you are Vegetarian/Vegan you may prefer to check with the company before you buy their product. 'Bone Black' is used to create the grey paints in the GOLDEN Acrylic range.
drying times
As with conventional oil colours, the paint film will be touch dry in 2-12 days, but different colours will dry at different rates due to the varying reaction of each pigment when mixed with oil. The Artisan paints are formulated individually to optimise the overall drying rates of Artisan, to avoid the problems of slow drying under layers.
The following list is a guide to the likely variations:
FAST DRYING (average 2 days): Prussian Blue, Umbers
MEDIUM DRYING (ave. 5 days): Cadmium hues, Phthalo Blue (Red shade), Phthalo Greens, Siennas, French Ultramarine, Synthetic Iron Oxides, Ochres, Titanium White, Zinc White, Lamp Black and Ivory Black
SLOW DRYING (over 5 days): Cadmiums, Permanent Rose (Quinacridone), Permanent Alizarin Crimson
The fast drying medium or Impasto medium is recommended if you want to speed the drying of all colours by around 50%.
Artisan paintings require full drying before varnishing - at least 6-12 months.
The following list is a guide to the likely variations:
FAST DRYING (average 2 days): Prussian Blue, Umbers
MEDIUM DRYING (ave. 5 days): Cadmium hues, Phthalo Blue (Red shade), Phthalo Greens, Siennas, French Ultramarine, Synthetic Iron Oxides, Ochres, Titanium White, Zinc White, Lamp Black and Ivory Black
SLOW DRYING (over 5 days): Cadmiums, Permanent Rose (Quinacridone), Permanent Alizarin Crimson
The fast drying medium or Impasto medium is recommended if you want to speed the drying of all colours by around 50%.
Artisan paintings require full drying before varnishing - at least 6-12 months.
The 'Fat over Lean' rule explained
process of the painting
As with all varnishing, ensure that the painting has been allowed to dry for a minimum of six months first.
It may be best to give the painting a light rub over with Artists’ White Spirit before applying the varnish. This will clean any grease or grime from the surface. If there is any trace of grease on your painting when you varnish it, the varnish will reticulate into beads where the grease is. Cleaning the work first ensures that the varnish goes on well.
It may be best to give the painting a light rub over with Artists’ White Spirit before applying the varnish. This will clean any grease or grime from the surface. If there is any trace of grease on your painting when you varnish it, the varnish will reticulate into beads where the grease is. Cleaning the work first ensures that the varnish goes on well.
Why not try one of our WATER-MIXABLE OIL Paints Tutorials
We do not currently have any tutorials available, so will provide you with a few videos taken from YouTube to help you progress.
WE WILL ADD SOME WATER MIXABLE OIL TUTORIALS TO THIS PAGE
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Updated: November 2020