Sharpening pencils & Recommendations

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Why have a whole article dedicated to sharpening pencils, we all know how to sharpen pencils right? Of course, but this article is more about which type of sharpener will be best for your pencil brand as well as how to use them as part of your technique. Just visiting a local art store or looking online brings up a huge range of different types of sharpener and if you are relatively new to art, this may seem quite overwhelming and so we have written this article to offer advice on some popular types/brands of sharpeners which may suit your own pencil products the most which will avoid damaging your pencil products and as an added bonus, these pencil sharpeners can actually help you in your application and become an important part of your pencil collection, not just for it's ability to keep your pencils sharp.

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Manual pencil Sharpener

Sharpening stand and craft knife

Cheap, plastic sharpener

Made for a specific brand of pencil

For Mechanical pencil leads

Wood sharpener made from sustainable sources

For left handed Artists

Sharpening Knife

​Here are just a few of the sharpeners we have picked out mostly from online searches but also products used in our own pencil work. In this section we offer some information on each which may offer you some helpful advice on which sharpener(s) may be most suitable for you. Click on any of the tabs below the picture to find out more about each - scroll left and right to view all 10 tabs.

• Cheap Range
• Basic
• Manual
• For Pastels
• Branded
• Knives
• Battery Powered
• Mechanical
• Lefties
• Wood

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The most common pencil sharpener around, and usually found in novelty sharpeners that will have these plastic sharpeners embedded inside them somewhere. We recognise these most probably from childhood, when most pencil sets came with a pencil sharpener, a little safer than a metal pencil sharpener for little ones but pretty useless for quality pencils. 

Not recommended for professional pencils.

The basic sharpener tends to be a single or double holed sharpener and made of metal.
Far more robust than a plastic pencil sharpener, has a longer life and easier to carry around in a pencil case.
​Easy to replace blades too. 
You can tell if the blade is blunt when your pencil sharpens in bits rather than as one continuous piece, change the blade or buy a new sharpener.

Many artists prefer using a manual sharpener because the blade rotates around the pencil, which can help prevent breakage. In contrast, handheld sharpeners require twisting the pencil against a stationary blade. This motion can put pressure on the core and cause it to break more easily.To use this type of sharpener, simply press the two black sections at the top together, insert your pencil, and release to secure it. Turn the crank handle at the back to sharpen, and the shavings will fall into the clear drawer below. 

Keep in mind that this type of sharpener may be too heavy for sharpening softer pastel pencils.

When using a sharpener designed for pastel pencils, such as the one made by the pencil's brand, be aware that the blade may dull faster. To prevent damage to the wood casing, it's a good idea to have replacement blades on hand.
If you prefer using a sharpener over a craft knife, look for the sharpener made by the pencil's brand. Other companies also have their own sharpeners designed specifically for their pastel pencils.

If you are buying  a brand of pencil be aware that the barrel of the pencil may be thinner or thicker than standard pencils and you may need to purchase the brands pencil sharpener too. Ideally, purchase spare blades to prolong the life of the sharpener as well as protecting the wood & core of your pencils.

Some Artists prefer to use a craft knife to sharpen their pencils because it allows them full control of the shape and length of their pencil point.

If you are uncomfortable using a blade for fear of cutting yourself, Derwent has created a set which includes a sharpening stand so you do not have to hold the pencil whilst you are chipping away at the tip.

Derwent has now discontinued this particular electric sharpener but you can find other battery powered sharpeners like it with multiple holes. The top twists round to allow you to select the sharpener you need. 3 different widths for different pencil thicknesses and a short point sharpener as well as the standard length sharpener. Electric sharpeners can be quite harsh on soft 'leads' and it is not suitable for pastel pencils at all.

A pencil sharpener specifically for users of mechanical pencils. Using a standard size pencil sharpener will be far too wide for the thin piece of lead to be safely sharpened but the lead will sit snuggly and safely inside whilst you turn the barrel to sharpen. The Kum extra long pencil sharpener also has 2 mini sharpeners at the top for mechanical pencils, which offer two different tip lengths, which is an additional bonus.

If you are right handed, you probably didn't even think about the necessity of a left handed pencil sharpener, but for artists that are left handed, the blade is fixed the opposite way making it easier for 'lefties' to sharpen their pencils too. There are a wide range of left handed pencil sharpeners out there for those who struggle with right handed sharpeners.

Wood pencil sharpeners may be preferred by artists who prefer to use/own products that are made from sustainable sources, ones that do not leave as big a footprint on the earth like plastic sharpeners do.

Although there are not as many wooden types available, you may still find wood sharpeners with up to 5 width holes in one, which should fit almost every pencil.  
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​When choosing a sharpener, different pencils and situations call for different tools.
For general use, the Derwent battery-powered sharpener is a popular choice for artists due to its speed and minimal mess. However, electric or handheld sharpeners are not recommended for pastel pencils, as their fragile cores can easily crumble. While many artists use Caran d'Ache Luminance, softer pencils like Derwent Coloursoft are ideal for tonal backgrounds. For these softer-cored pencils, a KUM long-length sharpener provides a longer tip, ideal for covering larger areas. Manual sharpeners are generally a gentler option for these softer pencils.

Short Leads

Many new sets of Prismacolor Premier pencils come sharpened to a short point. This is likely done to minimise breakage, a common complaint about these pencils due to their exceptionally soft core. Constant breakage in these pencils may often be caused by sharpening them to a long point, which can put unnecessary pressure on the delicate tips. While some issues may be due to a faulty batch, the soft nature of the lead makes them more vulnerable to damage. To salvage pencils with a damaged barrel or core, keeping the core at a shorter point may help prevent further damage.

Long Leads

Hard-cored pencils, such as oil-based coloured pencils and graphite Hard leads, are strong enough to be sharpened to a longer point than with a standard sharpener. Even softer-based pencils, like wax-based coloured pencils or graphite B leads, can be used with a longer point, but artists should be more gentle with them as they are more vulnerable to breaking. Pencils like Derwent Coloursoft are often sharpened to a long point to allow for the use of the full length of the lead to create smooth, tonal backgrounds. 

Related articles that may be of interest​

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Why use a long point sharpener?

A long-point sharpener is used for two main purposes. First, it creates an extremely fine tip that is ideal for drawing very thin lines and for detailed work. Second, it produces a longer, exposed lead or core that can cover a larger area of paper more quickly. This longer point helps to minimise harsh edges, which is particularly useful for achieving smooth blends and even tonal backgrounds. The KUM brand is a popular choice for this type of sharpener.

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Coloured Pencils

The left side of the sharpener allows you to create an extension of the 'lead' leaving it with grooves depending on how long you wish the 'lead' to be. 
The right side of the sharpener smooths out these grooves in the lead and gently smoothes out the wood on the barrel too, leaving you with a smooth edge to apply along your paper.

​If you are working on a portrait where you need to create a tonal background covering a relatively large area, working with a long length tip will cut the time spent on covering this area and can also create a smoother application for a more balanced transition of tones. Using the length of the 'lead' avoids harsh lines which can be left on the paper if creating a tonal background with the tip of the pencil, which you may not be able to blend away.

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Graphite Pencils

When working with graphite pencils, artists often sharpen the lead to varying lengths depending on the size of the area they are covering. A longer lead allows for covering a larger area more quickly than a standard or short point. Conversely, a shorter lead can be very helpful for applying tone in a small or thin area.
Like coloured pencils, graphite leads are defined as either hard or soft. The H grades stand for Hard and are more robust at a long point. The B grades are softer, getting progressively softer as the number increases. For this reason, care should be taken when sharpening B leads to a long point, as they are more likely to break if too much pressure is applied.

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Pastel pencils

A lot of pastel artists (and pencil artists) opt to sharpen their pencils using a blade as it allows them to control the shape and the length of the core. Ensure the blade is kept sharp to avoid hacking your pencil to pieces and possibly damaging the core of the pencil (as well as the possibility of your fingers) A fine grit sand paper can help to shape the point of your pastel pencil - sandpapers can be purchased from most DIY stores or you can buy a sand paper block from some art stores online.  Be careful with soft core pencils as sharpening your pencil with a blade could damage the barrel and the core. Always sharpen the pencil by shaving away from your body rather than towards it. you may wish to create your own sharpening stand that can grip well (like a vice) so you do not need to hold the pencil yourself.

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Damaged barrels & leads

From time to time you may come across a pencil with a damaged wooden barrel or worse still, a damaged lead - the damage may have happened in the creation process at the factory or during transit to a store or even to yourself, you may even have caused it when you accidentally dropped your pencil on a hard surface.  If you have ordered a set of pencils from a store/online and quite a few of them are damaged, check the extent of the damage first as it may just be broken tips which are easily repaired, however there may be an issue with the whole pencil meaning each time you sharpen your pencil, the lead continuously breaks - this could mean the whole 'lead' is damaged and there is probably little you can do to repair it (although you may be able to salvage it, more of this in the next section) If it is damaged beyond repair, you may wish to contact the store you purchased them from for a replacement, if you have a batch of pencils damaged in the same way, it could be more an issue of the whole batch and this is most likely a problem of the pencil company rather than the seller, contact the seller so they can get in touch with the company if this is the case. 
Below are a couple of examples of damaged pencils.

This Derwent Graphic pencil has a notable breakage. In some cases, this damage occurs during the manufacturing process, as seen when paint has bled into the wood. This can create a weakness in the pencil. To reinforce the damaged area, wrapping strong tape around the split can be effective, as this has been shown to prevent further issues over the pencil's lifespan. Even with barrel damage, a pencil can still be used as long as the lead is intact. It's important to remember that some pencils, like Prismacolor and Derwent Coloursoft, as well as B grade graphite pencils, have softer leads that are more prone to breaking due to their composition. Using the correct sharpener is therefore essential to prevent breakage.

The two pencils shown are Prismacolor Verithin pencils with clear splits in their wood barrels. This damage often extends the full length of the barrel, making the lead inside vulnerable. If the lead breaks continuously during sharpening, it is a strong indication that both the barrel and the core are damaged. In such cases, the pencil may be unsalvageable and need to be discarded. However, a pencil with a damaged barrel might still be salvaged by only sharpening it to a short point.

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Short leads

If you have a soft core pencil that is particularly vunerable and seems to break easily whenever you sharpen it, it may be best to sharpen the pencil to a short length using the thicker width pencil sharpener. Although it means your pencil will wear down a little quicker than normal and need sharpening a little more often, if you have a damaged core in a pencil that runs all the way through, keeping the pencil sharpened to a shorter point may mean you don't have to throw the whole pencil away simply because of the damage. A little compromise certainly worth doing.

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Sharpening Techniques

• Mind the Angle: The angle at which you sharpen can define your point's purpose. A steep angle will give you a fine needle point for detail work, while a shallower angle will create a broad, robust tip for filling in large areas.
• Rotate with Care: For the most symmetrical and centered point, rotate the pencil smoothly and evenly as you sharpen. This helps to distribute the pressure and prevents the lead from breaking on one side.
• Listen to the Pencil: Pay attention to the feel of the sharpener. If you feel or hear grinding, the blade may be getting dull, or you might be applying too much pressure.