Acrylic paints | A helpful guide for acrylic artists and beginners
Looking to try acrylic paints but not sure where to start?
Acrylic paints are a very versatile medium as they can be used like watercolours or oils. They are fast drying and come in a large selection of colours. You can also buy various mediums that can be used to create texture and tonal effects or sheens. Acrylic paints are an exciting medium for any artist regardless of calibre and they can be applied to many different supports such as canvas, paper, wood or metal.
So, what do you need to get started?
So, what do you need to get started?
1. Acrylic paints
Acrylic paints are widely available in any art store or online. If you have no supplies at all, buying a simple kit with 6 - 8 colours in them will be a good start. You should be able to mix these colours to extend your palette. There are many companies out there that sell their own acrylic paint brands. Each brand can vary and will depend on your personal style and preferences. Some brands can be seen below and you can click on some images to find out more about the product.
W & N Galeria acrylics are classed as student grade and are ideal for those starting out as they are affordable with a wide range of colours available.
Click the image to read the GALERIA article |
GOLDEN offers a few ranges of acrylic. Their heavy body paints are classed as a professional range and contain the most pigment. This range has a thicker consistency than many other ranges.
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Interactive acrylics like Atelier allows an artist to have complete control over its drying speed using the 'Unlocking formula'. You can create art using thin washes or thick, impasto applications.
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2. Easel
Easels can be as simplistic as a flat piece of wood to a custom made desk. Do you have an area that you will use for creating your art, a kitchen table, or a spot next to the window? Placing your art on a flat or sturdy surface is so important to ensure you can paint securely without the paper or the canvas moving around. Below are some examples of easels. If you work on your art for many hours, you need to ensure you are comfortable too.
This support board offers you a flat surface with which to secure your painting to if sat at a table or a desk. If you are painting on paper or unframed canvas, attach the surface to the board with masking tape.
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This type of board can be adjusted to 3 heights and can be stood on any flat surface. It has a ledge which the canvas can sit upon and hold it in place. You may need to secure around the edges to ensure it does not move from side to side whilst you paint.
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A floor easel allows you to work in almost any spot you wish, if there is enough space. You can adjust the height at the top to hold your canvas securely in place. The easel shown in the photo also allows you to work at a flat angle too with space to hold your painting supplies on the ledge at the bottom.
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3. CANVAS/SUPPORT
There are many surfaces you can paint on; paper, canvas, wood and aluminium surfaces. Your choice of canvas will depend on your style of painting. Some come primed, others will require a primer such as gesso before you paint on them. The highly popular canvas has a weave which can be notable or very fine. If you prefer loose work, bold applications and are using mediums with your paints, canvas may be the best option. If you are looking to create highly detailed, fine work with small brushes, a smooth canvas like the Ampersand Gessobord or Claybord may be better for you. Below are some other examples.
Weave canvases are available in a large variety of sizes, shapes and depths. Cotton is the one most widely available at low prices, but some artists such as those who work with Oils prefer to work on Linen canvases.
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MDF is low cost and makes an ideal surface to paint on. MDF can be cut to any size or shape and available in various thicknesses too. You will need to prime the surface before you paint on it though.
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Aluminium panels are rigid, lightweight painting surfaces which do not release gases over time, barely reacting to changes in humidity and temperature and do not warp like traditional painting surfaces can.
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4. OUTLINE
Before you start painting, you need to create your outline. What you use to create your outline is entirely up to you and there are many options available other than a pencil. Some ideas are offered below. If you use a pencil, you may need a rubber/eraser too.
A 2B or 3B pencil is ideal to draw your outline before beginning your painting. The leads are softer on these grades meaning it won't dent your canvas and the outline is easier to erase.
Click the image to read the GRAPHIC PENCIL article |
Frisk Tracedown offers a simple way of tracing your outline. Place a sheet of it behind your reference image and secure to your paper/canvas before drawing around the image. This will transfer to your support.
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Ghiant's transfer spray ensures you get the perfect outline with minimal wastage. You can spray it directly on to the back of your reference photo before placing on your support and copying the outline.
Click the image to read the GHIANT article |
5. BRUSHES
Brushes come in all shapes and are either made from synthetic hair or animal hair. Generally, firm bristle brushes will leave behind brushmarks during painting, where softer ones offer a smoother application, perfect for tonal blending. This gives you the option of choosing if you want texture in your paintwork or if you prefer a highly realistic finish, where brushmarks cannot be seen.
Will you be quite heavy handed with your brushes? If so, buy cheaper ones and keep an expensive set for best. Don't buy too cheap as they have a tendency to 'moult'. Each hair may dry into your paint, damaging your painting whilst attempting to remove it.
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If you prefer to use natural brushes, here is a basic recommendations list:
Sable brushes - Ideal for Watercolour Hog brushes - Ideal for Oils Synthetic - Ideal for Acrylics |
What is the average size of the canvases you will be working on? If you are going to paint BIG! and need big brush strokes, you're unlikely to need small brushes. You can buy quality paintbrushes from any DIY store.
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IMPORTANT: If you invest in quality brushes, always make sure you wash them thoroughly after use and dry them out with bristles pointing upwards to avoid damage. Your brushes will last much longer if cared for correctly.
6. PALETTE
You can use almost anything as a palette. An old plate or kitchen tile, a saucer, even an old foil dish that once held dog food (well washed!). You do not need to buy a palette, but a good palette can be very useful. Below are some examples of different types available. Which you choose for your acrylics is down to personal preference but it is recommended that you always clean them properly after you have finished with them.
Plastic palettes are much better for watercolours. Acrylics have a tendency to stain over a period of time. Plastic can easily become scratched from the metal ferrules of the brush if you are using pressure. This will allow paint to gather inside and may break bristles on your brushes if it gets snagged.
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Porcelain is ideal for acrylics as it is much easier to clean all the paint off, providing you do this after each session. Porcelain dishes come in a variety of shapes and sizes with numerous wells. You may wish to build up a collection of palettes, especially if you work between paintings.
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A stay wet palette can be purchased from art stores or you can make your own at home. At the end of your painting session apply a spray or drop of water over the top of each 'blob' of paint left in your palette. Seal the palette well with cling film. Put it in the fridge. Paint can stay wet for days, possibly weeks in these conditions.
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IMPORTANT: Make sure you wipe excess paint out of your palette using a paper towel or wait until it dries, and peel it away. Dispose of paint and/or tissue in the bin (not the toilet). Avoid rinsing paint down the drain.
7. WATER POT
A water pot is a must. It is useful to have two water pots so you can have a light wash and a dark wash, and save you time on changing water constantly. If you are working on a painting with a dominant colour (such as blue for a seascape), having a third water pot for the blue tone will help minimise the transferring of colours from your water pot into other tones of paint.
Almost everyone has a spare glass jar they could utilise for a water pot. Old coffee jars are ideal and the larger ones are also great for storing or cleaning brushes after you have finished with them. Glass jars are far more accessible and it is better to recycle them this way than send them off to a recycling plant where they may just be thrown away rather than recycled again.
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A plastic water pot such as this has space for three colour washes. The pots stack inside the other for easy storage and the pots can be hung on your easel via the handle throughout your paint session if you are able to secure it safely. As with the palette, a plastic water pot will become stained when using with acrylics.
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This water tray and brush holder is the perfect addition to your acrylic collection. There are three wells that can be filled with water, a section to rest brushes upright between use and holes all around the rim to fit various sizes of paintbrush. This can also be used when drying your brushes overnight.
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8. VARNISH
Every acrylic painting should be protected with a varnish of some kind. This can come in many different forms and applied in various ways. Varnishes are used to protect finished paintings from dirt and grease, with some providing a certain degree of protection from UV light too. Varnishing a painting is an art form all of its own and you may need to try a few different ways before you find the one most suited.
Varnishes are available in a Gloss, Satin or Matt finish. The Galeria range by Winsor & Newton is a good choice for those looking for larger quantities of good quality product at an affordable price.
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Varnish is also available in aerosol form.
An acrylic polymer varnish which adds a gloss sheen that protects and resists dirt retention, discolouration, yellowing and fogging caused by humidity, heat and UV. Semi-opaque when wet, dries clear to a flexible, non-tacky, hard surface. You can use on flexible or rigid supports and is ideal for complete coverage of heavy textures and vertical applications. Designed for interior and exterior use. |
The MSA varnish is a Mineral Spirit based Acrylic resin system that forms a tougher, less permeable film than waterborne acrylic varnishes. It reduces dirt penetration and surface marring, offering an extremely level film with less foam and fewer pinholes. It is removable with Mineral Spirits after drying and is recommended for interior or exterior use.
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ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS
These are additional product recommendations that are also quite useful for your acrylic journey. As you progress you may find different ways to keep your working area clean and protect your paints between working times. If you wish to share any other tips, please get in touch!
Acrylics do not really require large use of water like watercolours do, so a few sheets of kitchen towel will be handy to soak up excess water on your paintbrush between colour changes. This also ensures you do not dilute your paints too much which can make them translucent. You may also wish to lay your paintbrushes on it to dry too.
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Acrylic paints are very difficult to wash out of clothes so wearing old clothing or an apron during your painting session will save your clothing . If you sit down during your painting session, why not place an old towel over your knees for extra protection too. You can buy packs of plastic aprons in some art stores, do check they are biodegradable before buying as some may not be.
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Cling film is the perfect sealant for stopping the paint in your palette from drying out until the next painting session. Store your palette in a cold place such as a fridge or out building and securely cover it with cling film. Placing drops of water on top of the paint before covering with cling film will keep it supple and the paint can stay wet for a few days in these conditions, sometimes even weeks if the paint is in larger quantities.
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OTHER PRODUCTS THAT MAY BE USEFUL
Here are a few more products that you may wish to add to your collection as you progress. To some artists, mediums are as important as the paint, but not everyone will ever use them. Storage for mixed paint colours are important and a low cost product such as a pipette can be a very useful tool as part of your acrylic kit. You may also wish to apply your acrylics and mediums with a palette knife which is not mentioned here, but a blog will follow on this product which will be linked here once available.
If working on a painting where you are mixing new colours, storing them in glass jars with seal tight lids will allow you to continue using that colour for the duration of your painting. Place a drop of water in each jar before sealing to help keep the paint supple. You can store the jar(s) inside a drawer or cupboard for weeks, even months dependent on the amount of paint in the jar.
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As acrylic paints dry quickly, it is recommended that you keep your paint supple with water during your painting session. You can either use a fine mist, spray bottle or a plastic pipette. Apply a spray or 1 - 2 drops of water into each well before placing the paint over the top (do not mix) If sealing your palette overnight for use the next day, apply another drop or two of water to stop your paint drying out.
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Mediums can be as important as the paints for some acrylic artists, but not everyone will use them, which is why they have been placed in the additional products list. There are various mediums that you can mix with your paints and create some highly effective, 3-D work. An article is in production on acrylic mediums and a link will be added here when available.
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Colour paletteYou can always buy a starter kit to begin with, but if you are unsure if acrylics are for you, purchasing just five colours may be a more cost-effective way to go. These can then be mixed to create other colours. The three primary colours are recommended which are red, blue & yellow (these are the three colours that cannot be created by mixing other colours together) these colours can then be mixed to produce 'secondary colours' which are green, purple and orange. Tertiary colours are made up from mixing primary colours with the secondary colours. By adding white or black to your colour mix will allow you to create an endless palette of colour. However with this mixing may come wastage so purchasing further colours in the same range where needed may be more preferable. Purchasing single tubes as and when needed rather than buying the full range of colours you hardly ever use will save money in the long run. You may find you use the white tone a lot, so it may be more cost effective to buy a larger tube/pot of this paint.
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Acrylic paint - What type or brand should I buy?
Student or Professional? What is the difference?
Here is a list explaining the differences of student & artist quality acrylic paints. I cannot stress the importance of trying acrylics out before buying a large, expensive range, if you cannot get on with them you've wasted a lot of money.
Here is a list explaining the differences of student & artist quality acrylic paints. I cannot stress the importance of trying acrylics out before buying a large, expensive range, if you cannot get on with them you've wasted a lot of money.
Cheap or student quality acrylics* Cheaper prices
* The cheaper the paints the more 'colour shift'** you will see * Created from man made pigments or from a dye means colours will be thinner, offering less coverage * More filler, less pigment * Can be used for underpainting to limit wastage on expensive paints * A 'hue' is an imitation not a pure pigment * Non-toxic, safe for children * Not all paints use lightfast pigments so colours may fade quicker. |
Artist/professional & interactive quality* Higher quality pigments
* Better coverage * More expensive * No 'colour shift' * Natural pigments are used * All artist quality paints are lightfast (ASTM standard) * Wider selection of colours * Smoother consistency makes them easier to blend * Higher permanance rating than watercolours & oils * Some pigments are toxic (Cadmium) - this pigment is hard to obtain and is one of the most expensive |
**As more filler is used in student grade paints this weakens the colour and you may find it will dry slightly darker than the paint colour in the tube - this is known as 'colour shift', the cheaper the paints the more the colour shift - there is no colour shift on artist/professional quality paints.
Hints & Tips
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DO: |
- When starting out, begin with heavy body acrylics as they can just as easily be thinned down allowing you to try different styles before deciding if you prefer a heavier, buttery consistancy (like oil paints) or work with a thinner paint (great for detail)
- Acrylics can be applied to most surfaces but you must always ensure your surface is primed correctly before applying any paint.
- The final painting should always be protected with a suitable varnish. Acrylic paintings are framed without the need for glass, so the varnish is very important.
- Interactive/Open paints is manufactured with a retardent to keep them workable for longer (all are lightfast classified as I and II)
- Transparent colours are used for glazing and tinting
- Some pigments contain animal derivatives such as crushed bone, if you are Vegetarian/Vegan you may prefer to check with the company before you buy their product. 'Bone Black' is used to create the grey paints in the GOLDEN Acrylic range.
Why not try one of our Acrylic Paints Tutorials
Are you an acrylic painter just starting out and looking for simple, step by step tutorials on this medium? The first acrylic tutorial explains how to achieve smooth, tonal backgrounds with only a paintbrush. Our second tutorial shows you how to paint a pink orchid using acrylic washes. Future mini tutorials for acrylic painters will be added in the coming months or visit our Art Tutorials page to see what is available in other mediums.
MORE ACRYLIC PAINT TUTORIALS COMING SOON
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Updated: November 2020